Llanrhstud has good access to the sea, the coastal path and its quiet shingle, dog friendly beach, which has a free car park. This one is small and looks as though it lacks the latest coprotechnology. The low sun makes dark fingers of the many inundations along the coast to the north; the plain in the distance is hazy in the heat that’s already building. The cliffs on our left are as crumbly as ever. Neither of us can remember such a summer’s end: warm, still and sunlit. Distance: 7.4 miles (11.9km). Its widows are empty and one of them shows signs of a fierce fire. Poking above the hill to our right is the tower of Llanddewi Aber-arth church, a stiff climb from the village it belongs to. oed’. The posts are recent, and the barbs look newly vicious. They pose obediently for our cameras. On the surface the village has kept much of its character from Hywel Teifi’s youth, despite losing shops, school and chapel: its narrow lanes and terraces look as if they’d been thrown into the air and allowed to land where they pleased. Great minds etc… Ffos-las is indeed a location used in Y Gwyll, although not for a gruesome murder (or, at least, not yet) – it’s where Tom Mathias lives in his caravan. The ever industrious monks also built fish traps or ‘goredi’ to catch salmon, sprats and mullet when the tide went out. They resemble nothing so much as dragons’ teeth. It sits shyly in the grass, back from the road, on the other side from the church (you can imagine the Baptists keeping their eyes right as they approached): a simple box, plainly painted, with two elegant arched windows and a blue door to their right. Other kites remain in sight almost all the rest of the walk. Below is a caravan, also apparently abandoned, perhaps after a vain attempt to rescue the farmhouse. The only people around are a couple of walkers who’ve strayed on to the wrong side of the interminable barbed wire fence that separates path from beach. You can still see the stone remains at low tide. On the sandy shore nearby are rows of wooden stakes, apparently the remains of jetties for unloading limestone and coal. Email ( required; will not be published ), a blog and more from Swansea by Andrew Green / blogfan a mwy o Abertawe gan Andrew Green, Wales Coast Path, day 52: Llanrhystud to Aberaeron, Wales Coast Path, day 50: New Quay from Aberaeron, Wales Coast Path, day 51: Aberaeron to Llanrhystud, Llyfrgell Genedlaethol Cymru / National Library of Wales. The stones aren’t laid flat but set at a 30 degree angle, as if in recognition of the slant wind and rain that often sweep across the cliffs. Alongside it is a terrace of four impressive limekilns. Here and in the rest of the building Penson coordinates the different masses with a skill that encourages the eye to linger. Start The walk starts at the jetty by New Quay harbour At low tide, follow the beach till Llanina where you turn inland to meet up with the alternative high tide route from New Quay at Pont Llanina car park. In a recent S4C television tribute he talked about how his small world gradually expanded, from his small native village, to surrounding towns and villages through visits by his football team, to Aberystwyth where he was a student, and then to the valleys of south Wales where he taught before coming to Swansea. Barley, the old crop, has given way to maize as we reach Morfa Mawr, another monastic grange. Afon Arth, the ‘bear stream’, ripples past back-gardens. The door is open and we can admire the dignified chapel-like interior, with its gallery, brass candelabra and big clock (‘Presented by Capt. Outbuildings are mostly in ruins too, except for one: terrified sheep pour from its inside when we approach and plunge down the slope towards the sea. Evans, Cigydd, offers ‘½ pig’ for £70. It protects a rare habitat, a miniature wood of dwarf sessile oaks. But there are plenty of sheep. In the early morning sun the T1 bus bowls down from Aberystwyth to Llanrhystud. The graveyard is long as we pass it by on the path: a reminder of ‘the tragic harvest of the sea’, in Gerald Morgan’s words. Down on the coast another caravan site sprawls to south and north across the flat green fields. There fine views north of Cardigan Bay, Llanrhystud, Aberystwyth and the Snowdonian mountains beyond. There are few useful information panels for walkers, and no pointers to the Path from the roads. We wonder whether the producers of Y Gwyll / Hinterland have found this location yet; its sinister emptiness and potential for televisual murder surely hold promise. At the rugby club a few portable green plastic toilets stand on their own, glumly waiting for the new season to begin. The house stands gutted. In Church Street the terraces, one of them directly attached to the Black Lion, and then elegant detached villas, lead down to Richard Kyrke Penson’s rebuilt church (1854). From Aberarth, the Ceredigion coast path climbs over Graig Ddu ("black rock") for great views towards Aberystwyth and Snowdonia. We stop to eat our pasties and flapjacks well above the sea, before by-passing the caravans and starting on the grassy path that leads up and up to the heights of Allt Wen. Wales Coast Path, day 51: Aberaeron to Llanrhystud Andrew Green • September 16, 2014 • 0 Comments Another Aberaeron start, but this time we’re walking to the north. To our left the sea has bitten irregular chunks out of the line of turf and clay. Aberaeron to Llanrhystud Cardigan to Aberporth—12 miles The first couple of miles on this section are very Starting from the bronze otter on the north side of the river Teifi the coastal path begins its northern journey. At Penderi, where the path climbs high, is a small cliff-side nature reserve managed by the Wildlife Trust of South and West Wales. One of them circles us curiously, to make sure that we’re still moving vigorously, before gliding off – the gentle thermals mean no effort is needed – to search for more convenient prey. Next, a caravan park, with a handful of campers collapsing their tents and preparing to leave. The path descends towards Morfa Bychan, another Strata Florida grange but now the site of a (well-planned) caravan park. In the early morning sun the T1 bus bowls down from Aberystwyth to Llanrhystud. Capel Salem (1823) makes a nice contrast to the established power of the church. Houses are few, but we pass Mynachdy’r Graig, once a monastic grange of Strata Florida Abbey. Another Aberaeron start, but this time we’re walking to the north. They’re matched on the land side by modern terrace housing of desperately poor design – mean houses that hold their faces away from the sea. The real story of the church, though, is outside. Despite the sunshine, a misty haze obscures the distance. Aberarth is now a quiet hamlet, but was once the centre of a busy coastal shipbuilding industry, which took place on the beach.

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