Personally, I bought some refurbished ones, plus a new one that was still in its (rather worn) box – it’d been sat on a shelf for 10 years, ha! I’m not a technician, so I binned it. It really is. Rocketjumpninja’s website has some great mouse review articles & youtube links, including detailed size comparisons / side-by-side videos of various popular mice. However, I play Overwatch with an eDPI of 3.1k (450 CPI * 7 sensitivity) which equates to roughly 43 cm for a 360. Logitech’s customisation software is a 100+ MB installer. The extra 10g is not noticeable as…, … it glides much better and faster than any other mouse I’ve tried. I then tugged at the sheath and removed the section. Posted to a window when the cursor moves. The WMO weighed in at ~80g, and in my opinion is better for it. mouse, True plug ‘n’ play. It would downclock OK (so I could run it at 30hz), so I just assumed I’d got a dud mouse since it wouldn’t go past the default settings. So here’s the current state of affairs (May 2017): Sweetlow is doing a great job considering it’s just a side hobby for him, and he’s helping a lot of people. Hitting a 180 means travelling ~20cm across the pad. The cable slides over a cloth pad easily and doesn’t twist or snag. games, It’s light. misc, The coordinate is relative to the upper-left corner of the client area. ), Its certificate (which must be renewed yearly, I believe) expired or is about to expire (this is bad! ), and I’m not really a fan of spending £60 on a mouse in what is essentially a blind purchase. The WMO mouse cable really sucks. To remedy this, you can strip the outer cable sheath – just (carefully) run a sharp knife around the circumference of the cable, then strip the sheath by gently tugging on it. The high-order word specifies the y-coordinate of the cursor. So what to do?. Unfortunately, I easily hit the negative acceleration threshold @ 125hz, and my 180 degree turn looks more like a 100 degree bout of confusion. I briefly touched on this in my previous post from 2011: if you don’t overclock the polling rate, the mouse performs worse. The sensor also tracks reliably over almost any surface so you can use your favorite tl;dr: It seems G-SYNC related. 1000hz, Furthermore, I don’t want a mouse with stupid cloud software (S3 is down? WMO. Various USB issues exist (haven’t personally run into this, but there’s lots of chat about disabling secure boot, xHCI and various other bits of hand-waving going on). It’s a great mouse. You don’t need to install any software whatsoever unless you want to customise it (I don’t). I thought I could help by detailing my problem & solution here. The WMO mouse cable really sucks. Given that my hands are fairly long (22cm or so) and I palm grip when gaming, I thought the Zowie EC1-A or the Razer DeathAdder would be good. If I really whip the mouse into a 180, the uneven turning is still evident, though much less pronounced. Given that I wanted a larger mouse, but not as big as the EC1-A, the Logitech G403 fitted the bill. The G403 is much larger than the Steelseries Rival 100, and somewhere between the sizes of the EC1-A and the EC2-A. This post is part of a series on unit testing. If you can walk into a decently-sized PC store and try out a load of mice, I’d recommend just forgetting about the WMO and finding something new. What I take from this spate of experimentation is that there is no ‘amazing’ mouse that beats all others. Otherwise, the message is posted to the window that has captured the mouse. What I will say is that, if you’re a high sensitivity gamer and don’t fling the mouse around a lot, this may not be a significant issue. I made a cut about an inch from the mouse body, then another half a metre up the cable. Try out some mice and see what suits you rather than buying the “best” mouse with the most positive reviews. Sweetlow has said he’ll roll these fixes into the new signed driver. The tl;dr here is that the WMO (and its stablemates) offers “perfect control” to a speed up to 1m/s, but exhibits negative acceleration beyond this speed unless you overclock the mouse polling rate. Indicates whether various virtual keys are down. Thanks to sweetlow and co for this bit of magic. The coordinate is relative to the upper-left corner of the client area. The cable is very thick. You don’t need to strip the entire cable, just a section of it close to the mouse body. The DPI switch cycles between 400 / 800 / 1600 / 3200 DPI without requiring drivers. I’ll see how badly this affects my game and either persevere, or get a new mouse. Windows 2000 Professional [desktop apps only]. There is a copper inner sheath, so it should be fine. There’s also an alternative overclock which involves USB 3.0, but I’ve not touched that one. Ryujehong’s 70+cm/360 would certainly not agree with the WMO! I might love it, but I might hate it. It’s not an exact science, but the mice tend to be so cheap that it doesn’t matter if you buy a dud or two. The optical sensor is even sealed to prevent dirt and lint from getting in and affecting performance. The guy that wrote the driver has showed a lot of ingenuity, and the community came together to raise the funds to sign the driver. It’s extremely stiff and doesn’t straighten out easily; this results in snagging and uneven resistance as you move the … There’s also a huge thread full of “HLAP! The IntelliEye optical sensor tracks movement thousands of times times per second, giving you smooth and precise motion. I played with the WMO for a week or so; the negative acceleration coupled with my low sensitivity renders it unsuitable. It won’t work!” posts, and I don’t think there’s an FAQ, so you have to sift through 50+ page threads full of information that is usually not terribly relevant to your particular issue. Without a mouse ball, there are no moving parts to clean or wear down. I then bought a Steelseries Rival 100, as I needed a stopgap mouse. Tags: I’ve been using Wordpress with 34sp.com hosting since the late noughties, and it’s time for a %systemroot%\system32\drivers\usbport.sys, %systemroot%\system32\drivers\usbxhci.sys, Download the updated (non-signed) hidusbf.sys file from, Replace the hidusbf.sys in the signed driver directory (DRIVER/AMD64/hidusbf.sys) with the one you just grabbed, Open a cmd prompt with admin privileges and type the following commands, Right click HIDUSBF.INF and choose “install”, Set the polling rate to 1000hz or whatever you want, Click “restart” (the button in the setup.exe, not restart your PC!).

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