Schiaparelli ran away from her upper-class family and worked in the United States briefly as a translator. Starting with knitwear, Schiaparelli's designs were heavily influenced by Surrealists like her collaborators Salvador Dalí and Jean Cocteau. News . Conversations*, it will open in May 2012. spoke about her childhood memories of her grandmother. By 1935 she was a leader in haute couture and was quickly expanding into jewelry, perfume, cosmetics, lingerie, and swimsuits. Her first collection consisted of sweaters adorned with. She closed her design house in 1954. Updates? Schiaparelli became associated with a shade of magenta - which came to be known as "Schiaparelli pink". She experimented with the double Armenian stitch and launched her knitwear collection in early 1927 with trompe l’oiel images which soon became her signature. "She hated, to be called grandmother," Berenson recalled in a piece for *V, Magazine*. She was the first have brooch like buttons on her clothes. In 1954, she shutdown her fashion house after returning to France postwar. surrealist trompe l'oeil images - a theme that was to become, Schiaparelli's trademark. Omissions? Her designs were noted for combining eccentricity with simplicity and a trim neatness with flamboyant colour. In 1940, her music collection was introduced – Gogo Schiaparelli International Debutante. Let us know if you have suggestions to improve this article (requires login). In the same year she relocated her shop to 21 Place Vendome, where it became known as Schiap Shop. Her sweaters became popular and pretty soon Schiaparelli had to hire a team of workers to cope with the rising demand. In 1947 Schiaparelli’s new colour, “shocking pink,” was the sensation of the fashion world. By signing up for this email, you are agreeing to news, offers, and information from Encyclopaedia Britannica. In 1940, Schiaparelli’s daughter, Gogo got married to Robert L. Berenson and Schiaparelli started living in New York. Elsa Schiaparelli was born in 1890, in the Corsini palace in Rome. She died in Paris at the age of 83 in Paris after being in a comatose state for several weeks. Entitled, *Elsa Schiaparelli and Miuccia Prada: Impossible. In New York, Schiaparelli started to work with Gaby Picabia - the ex-wife of French Dadaist artist Francis Picabia and owner of a boutique selling French fashions in New York. With a father who was the director of the Lincei library and a professor of Oriental literature, an astronomer uncle and a mother descended from the Medicis, she grew up in a family of aristocrats and intellectuals. In the same year, the House of Schiaparelli came to an end too. It was in London that she met her husband Count William de Wendt de Kerlor who was a theosophist and one of her lecturers. She was famous for her Surrealist fashions of the 1930s and for her witty accessories, such as a purse in the shape of a telephone. 21, Place Vendôme. In the next decade, she introduced a menswear line, her perfumes Le Roy Soleil and Success Fou debuted and foldable sunglasses were introduced. Schiaparelli soon went on hunger strike leading to her release aged 22, at which point she took a job as a nanny in London. Founded by Elsa Schiaparelli in 1927, Schiaparelli conveys a unique spirit where Haute Couture rhymes with art, innovation, utmost elegance and audacity. Along with Coco Chanel, her greatest rival, she is regarded as one of the most prominent figures in fashion between the two World Wars. Be on the lookout for your Britannica newsletter to get trusted stories delivered right to your inbox. Elsa Schiaparelli, (born Sept. 10, 1890, Rome, Italy—died Nov. 13, 1973, Paris, France), Italian-born fashion designer who established an important couture house in Paris. Back in the days, Schiaparelli introduced a new color magenta which later came to be known as Schiaparelli pink. In 1940, her Sleeping perfume was launched and sleeping blue became her new signature color. In her autobiography Schiaparelli explained that her fascination with the colour came from a Cartier diamond owned by her friend, the socialite Daisy Fellowes, describing the jewel's colour as "bright, impossible, impudent, becoming, life-giving, like all the light and the birds and the fish in the world but together, a colour of China and Peru but not of the West - a shocking colour, pure and undiluted." She was the first designer to create zippers in colours that matched the material used in her garments, and was also the first to adorn clothes with detailed, brooch-like buttons. It was in Paris that Schiaparelli began to design and make clothes with the encouragement of Paul Poiret and, in 1927, she started her own business. Her clients included the heiress Daisy Fellowes and actress Mae West. Despite the favorable reviews she got, the business had to be shutdown in 1926. Her shop also opened in Seventh Avenue where her pantsuits were sold. PRINTEMPS … They moved to New York and had a daughter, Maria Luisa Yvonne Radha de Wendt de Kerlor - better known as Gogo Schiaparelli. When France declared war on Germany in 1939, Schiaparelli moved back to New York. Her contributions to the fashion world are the zippers matching the fabric that she first introduced. Copyright © 2019 FamousFashionDesigners.org. “Shortie” coat design by Elsa Schiaparelli, 1953, …collaborated with Italian fashion designer. Affectionately known as "Schiap" to her close friends, she mixed with some of the time's most famous faces such as Marlene Dietrich, Christian Bérard, Paul Poiret, Greta Garbo and Jean Cocteau. She spent much of her free time at museums or attending lectures. This was the start of her own business that gave way to the House of Schiaparelli where she sold her ready-to-wear line. Through her work there Schiaparelli met artists like Marcel Duchamp and Man Ray. Two of her most famous pieces produced with Dali were the shoe hat, which was worn as if up-turned upon the wearer's head; the Tears dress, an evening gown painted with trompe l'oeil rips and tears; and the Skeleton dress, a black gown featuring padded pieces representing bones. News. This article was most recently revised and updated by, https://www.britannica.com/biography/Elsa-Schiaparelli. Elsa Schiaparelli, (born Sept. 10, 1890, Rome, Italy—died Nov. 13, 1973, Paris, France), Italian-born fashion designer who established an important couture house in Paris. In the same year she won the Neiman Marcus Fashion Award for her bold, daring and contemporary designs. Even the catwalks we see today were originally introduced by her when she showcased her first collection on the runway accompanied by art and music. If there is any fashion designer who deserves to be called a genius and one hundred percent original, it would be none other than the avant garde queen of the fashion industry, Elsa Schiaparelli. Haute Couture. Born in 1890 in Rome, she was a true non-conformist by nature; her designs were naturally born to stand out. Ready-to-Wear. 21, Place Vendôme. After her marriage ended, owing to her husband's unfaithfulness, she decided to follow Picabia and Man Ray to Paris. Demand for the sweater became, huge and Schiaparelli soon employed a team of workers to produce, more, signalling the start of her own business. This lead to, Schiaparelli opening her first shop, House of Schiaparelli, where, Italian designer Miuccia Prada would be the subject of a major, exhibition at New York's Metropolitan Museum of Art. Our editors will review what you’ve submitted and determine whether to revise the article. The three famous masterpieces they created together are the shoe hat, the skeleton and tears dress. Corrections? Schiaparelli did not adapt to the changes in fashion following World War II and her couture house closed in 1954. Elsa Schiaparelli If there is any fashion designer who deserves to be called a genius and one hundred percent original, it would be none other than the avant garde queen of the fashion industry, Elsa Schiaparelli. The controversial book shocked her family and, as a result, she was sent to a convent.

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